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India....continued
This is where all the letters from Christmas day through the end of January belong, when I find them. Jeannie Alvin's Friends Date: 1 february 2000 22:37 Subject: Jeannie is "on the road, again" Hello folks, another letter from Jeannie - this time she is "on the road" traveling in India. I think you will enjoy reading her adventure. Love, Vickie
********************************************************* May All the Beings in All the Worlds be Happy!
Hi, Darshan! Hello from Chennai! Pat and I are off to a good start on our trip. Hello to you and Jerry! I will send this letter to Vickie also for the group email. Here is what happened on our overnight bus ride, part of which you know, because you were there at the beginning of it! Our last darshan with Swami was a quickie. The lines were long, and still going in when the music started. We were outside. We got in only to see a glimpse of orange robe going into the mandir. Our group did not get an interview. 6:30pm Jan. 30th Pat and I arrive with luggage for overnight bus trip to Madras (Chennai). The 200 rupee fare entices us. We hope we can manage all night on the bus, with uncertain bathroom facilities! Raji and Shamila come to see us off. They supervise our luggage going out of the bus, where it did not fit, to the back luggage hold at the rear outside of the bus. It took quite a while to get our luggage back off the bus, as the other passengers were coming on. We take our seats. A man shows us his ticket, saying he has seats 21 and 22, our seats! Finally he realizes that he has seats 1 and 2. Darshan comes on the bus to see us off. He helps us figure out how to recline the seats. We say our goodbyes to a dear friend. 7pm The bus takes off. It is a big, modern looking bus. It says hi-tech on the side. I have my air pillow from June on my left, Pat tries using my other air pillow to get comfortable. The seats are quite nice, like airline seats. They have a built-in headrest. We are lucky because there are no built-in TV's on this bus, so it will be quieter at night. The lights are soon turned off, and it is dark and quiet, even though it is just 7:30pm. 8:30pm. Restaurant and bathroom break. We stop at a small village. I stay in my seat to watch our bags; Pat goes in search of a bathroom. Pat returns making faces. She walked through a restaurant full of only men to a horrid restroom. I left the bus hoping to find a better bathroom. I went to a little shop just in front of the bus and asked the men there if they knew where a ladies toilet was. They shook their heads no. I have no idea if they understood me. The next shop was a tailors shop with three tailors. I asked my question. One of the tailors called his little daughter, who spoke some English. She was about 12 years old. She and her father spoke in some language I did not understand. Then she took me by the hand and led me around the building to a latrine behind the tailor's shop. I had difficulty seeing in the dark, and she helped guide me. The latrine was actually quite clean. It was Indian style, a hole with a place for two feet beside it, in ceramic! I came out of the restroom in a bit of a hurry, because I thought I heard the bus's horn honking! To my surprise, I faced an audience of about a dozen women and children! They wanted to say hello and speak a bit! Their faces were very sweet, simple and innocent! I would have liked to spend some time with them, but I heard the bus's horn honking for sure! So off I went to the bus, holding the little girl's hand for safety in the dark alley. The bus driver was waiting for me! Pat had told him I was outside! As I got in, he closed the door and started the engine! I took my seat. Pat said I missed something interesting! The man stood in the aisle just in front of her scratching something in his shirt. A big lizard came out, and crawled to the back of the bus! The man sitting behind me opened the window that we shared. After the bus was on the way, I discovered that June's pillow was missing. I asked the man behind me why he did not tell me. He must have seen it! So that pillow is gone, unless someone in the spirit world apports it to me on my travels. I dozed off and on through the night. As we got off the bus at about 8am the next morning, we met a nice man from the USA named Indra. He is going to be in Madras for only one day. We are staying two nights. Feb. 1, 2000 Madras (Chennai) Pat and I went to the Theosophical Society's headquarters, where Helen Blavatsky and Annie Besant worked in the late 1800's and early in the 1900's (last century, last millenium!!!). It was a green, quiet oasis in a busy city. We walked through an entrance gate and entered a long, long driveway. Big, old trees and lots of green plants gave a country feel. We arrived at a big building with high ceilings, big vacant areas, a few tables and chairs, and bas-relief figures from many religions. To our surprise, Indra, the man we met on the bus came up to us! He was very pleasant, and joined us for a few hours. He gave us some good tips on our upcoming travel. He suggested visiting a sacred mountain a couple of hours from Pondicherry. Also, and a great tip, he suggested having a travel agent get our train tickets for us for a very small charge. We had heard that the process is not easy, so we were happy to learn that someone else could handle it for us. We were very tired, and moved slowly during the whole day. Feb. 2 We are well rested. We are staying at an inexpensive hotel called the Hotel Comfort. It has an air conditioner and a fan, and hot water in the morning for showers. There is also a large mirror, the first one I have seen in India. I saw myself in the mirror for the first time since I have been here. I have no idea how much weight I lost with the India-special diet I was on so frequently! (The India-special diet... eat one minute, lose it the next.) But I am not over-weight anymore. In the morning we ordered our train tickets from Madras to New Delhi for February 14th. There is a small travel service in the hotel. It only cost 60 rupees for the service. We picked up our ticket in the afternoon! There is a vegetarian restaurant called Majarajah just around the corner. I had a fruit salad and three idlis. Idlis are a steamed cake, made out of rice flour, I think. I am going very easy on hot spices right now, so I avoided the spicy orange colored sauce, and the coconut chutney sauce. I dipped my idlis very lightly in a lovely green sauce made from coriander. Sad news about the first roll of film from my new camera. I bought a camera in Bangalore. The man I bought it from loaded the film. Either he loaded it wrong, or the film was defective. I had such a good time taking pictures with our group on the trip to Mysore. All are ruined. I opened the camera, because it stopped working, and said number 36 in the little window. None of the film went through the camera. Sorry Darshan. This means I have no photos of Darshan, Jerry, Raji, or Shamila or that whole trip. Today Pat and I took a small sight-seeing trip in an auto-rickshaw. We went to the beach, where we had coconut water and coconut meat. I also had some peanuts. Then the driver said he would take us to a Shiva temple. As he was zipping along the streets, we whisked by a small temple. We tapped the driver on the shoulder as we passed it. He took us back to it. We walked up white marble steps with inlaid designs. A woman in an orange sari was performing a worship ceremony with the idols, putting yellow dots on them. Pat said it looked like a Jain temple. Then the priest came up to us and said it was a Jain temple. It was very beautiful. Then we went on to the Shiva temple. Pat agreed to hire a guide. He told us he would be happy with whatever we wanted to give him. (Never true here, whatever we give is never enough, we are always asked for more.) Shiva actually walked on these grounds during his incarnation, our guide told us. The idols were so far inside different arches that we just peek in from the entrance. We could not see them well, as they were not well lit. But we could see a big oval stone called a lingam. It was over a foot tall. There were sacred cows around the temple complex. There was one baby calf and several grown ones. As in Puttaparti, even though Madras is a big city, animals can be seen wandering the streets. We have seen cows and horses just wandering, and trying to forage for food in rubbish. There do not seem to be water troughs for the poor things anywhere that I have seen. The vendors do not bother us here, as they do in Puttaparti. And there are fewer beggars where we have been. Pat and I visited the bus station to check out buses to our next travel stop, Mahabilapuram. The buses are just like city buses, with no room for luggage except on top. We will take a taxi for 600 rupees instead of a bus. We also visited the train station where we will leave on February 14th to visit the Taj Majal and Benares, where they float candles on the holy Ganges river. We won't leave on that train trip until 10 pm at night. We wanted to see if there is a place in the station to store our luggage on the day we return. We want to arrive, store our luggage, and then go out in the city for as long as we wish. We found a cloak room in the train station where we can store luggage for 7 rupees each for each 24 hours. Pat is sitting beside me, learning to do email for the first time. It is 7:30pm, and I am hungry. I am looking forward to eating alu palak, spinach and potatoes, in the veggie restaurant. She pointed out that there is a big picture of Shirdi Sai Baba on the wall! Tomorrow we are off to Mahabilapuram for a few days of rest at the beach, and a bit of sight-seeing. I am healthy again, for about a week! Hooray!!!
Date: 13 february 2000 18:19 Subject: Jeannie Alvin "on the road again" Hi Friends, Below is the latest news from Jeannie Alvin. After spending several months with Sai Baba, she is now on another adventure. Sounds like she is having a lovely trip. Enjoy ********************************************************* May All the Beings in All the Worlds be Happy! Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 03:46:56 -0800 (PST) From: Jeannie Alvin <jeannie_alvin@yahoo.com> Subject: group email, Pondicherry
Dear folks; I will arrive back at the Carlsbad Airport at 4:10pm on Saturday, March 25th. On April 3, one week later, I will house-sit from then until July 21st. If anyone can pick me up at the airport, and/or needs a house-sitter, or can offer me a place to stay for that week, it would be greatly appreciated. I also will need a ride to Valley Center to pick up my car and become mobile again. Email is as normal as in the US here in these cities and towns. I can quickly read my mail, and write to you much more easily than when I was in Puttaparti. So feel free to write if you wish! However, I may be too busy sightseeing to look at the email very often! So be patient waiting for a reply! My travel the past 10 days has been very rewarding. Here is what has happened: In my auto-rickshaw tour of Madras, I also was taken to a Catholic Church. I believe it is called St. Thomas's. In 52 A.D., the apostle Thomas came to India. He eventually made his way to Madras, where he preached. He was persecuted and killed. His remains are interrred in that church! I found this quite facinating. Jan. 31st We arrived in Mahabalipuram, also known as Mamallapuram. We did not know the name of the hotel where we wanted to stay, but we had been given clues. A friend, Claire, from the Ladies Day choir, told me that her husband was a travel agent, and knew of a very nice hotel on the beach. She said that it was next to the Ideal Beach hotel, a very expensive hotel, and on the beach side of the hotel was a statue of Vivekinanda. She thought the hotel's name started with the letter 'M', something like 'Marmaris.' We took a taxi from Madras. As we approached Mahabalipuram, we spotted a sign for the Ideal Hotel. We went in for a moment. It was very ritzy, and very expensive! The third hotel down the road was the Mamalla Beach Resort. Since it started with 'M,' we decided to look at it. It was quite a ways off the highway, past palm trees and other greenery. Then we came near it, and into a forest of very tall pine trees! What a surprise to see pine trees here! They must grow in every climate! The hotel was very reasonably priced, especially since Pat and I were splitting the bill. We decided to stay for five nights. The rooms were beautiful, and there was a nice restaurant available. We took our room, and then walked through more pine trees to the beach. There were a number of stone tables and benches under the pine trees. Just at the edge of the pine trees was the statue of Vivekananda! We had found the right hotel! The beach was too rough to actually swim; I just went in as far as my ankles and was splashed to my waist! The waves came in with great force, and pulled back out with a very strong undertow. I did not dare even go in as deep as my knees. One day I was in the water just to my ankles, and was speaking with a man from India who was in the water as far as his knees. The wave came in so strong that it knocked him forward and down into the water! Another day I spoke with a French woman who had dared once to swim out past the first breakers. She said she just kept getting further out to sea, and she learned not to try to swim there! Now she just sits in the surf! But I enjoyed the beauty of the clear water, the sand, and the rhythm of the ocean. One day a young Indian woman and two young Indian men came near me as they searched for crabs. The men waited until a wave came in, bent over in the ankle deep water, and churned the sand a few inches below the water. Quite frequently they found crabs. They threw them to their woman companion waiting at the edge of the surf. She put them in a pot. Another time a herd of cows came by! I was just leaving the water. They waited until I passed by, then continued on their way. They seemed a bit shy! A vendor was there almost daily with fresh coconuts. A few other vendors came by, trying to sell their wares. The beach was very quiet, with just a few hotel guests, and the occasional vendor. I enjoyed the beach, and quiet times sitting under the pine trees reading about Ramakrishna. Both Ramakrishna and Vivakananda were men who became one with the Divine, and were great holy men. Their words are very inspiring. They and Sai Baba and Jesus and the ancient scriptures called the Upanishads and the Bhagavad Gita say the same things. Being one with God, as they all were, or are, and communicating from that source of All that Is, that is timeless and unchanging. Jan. 31st Pat and I went into town, and found our way to the shore temple. A man approached us and offered to be our guide. We accepted, as it makes the visit much more interesting to hear the history. Plus, speaking with the guide was very pleasant. He told us that the temple had been constructed the the 8th century. It is called Dravidian style, a style mainly found in this state of Tamil Nadu. There are a series of courts, enclosures, and various shrines at each side. It had been entirely covered with sand, and hidden from view for some centuries. I believe the British discovered it. February Feb. 4th I spent a few days lazing around, seeing the little town of Mahabalipuram, and checking for email. Stone carving has been a local trade for centuries. There are many shops where people are chiseling by hand. Then I went by myself to see more ancient temples and artwork. I am feeling a need to be by myself more. I saw a huge round rock called Krishna's butterball. It is at the top of a hill. Then I saw a small ancient temple carved entirely from the rock. As I was standing there, the guide who helped us enjoy the shore temple appeared, and offered to tell me about these archeological sites. I gladly accepted. I saw Arjuna's Penance, the world's biggest (they claim) bas-relief. That is like a carving of just the front edge of statues out of rock, making a three dimensional artwork. The carvings cover the face of several big rocks, measuring 27 meters wide by 9 meters tall! The artwork represents all of creation, showing gods, Arjuna (man), and birds and beasts. The guide showed me a carving that looked like a cow from one perspective, and then like an elephant from another! One bas relief showed Krishna holding up the mountains to protect people from torrential rains. Many people were under the mountain. This is a beautiful work of art. Then we hopped into an auto-rickshaw, and drove to another site, called the Five Rathas. These are all monolithic temples, which means that each temple, from floor to ceiling, was carved out of one huge rock. They were also in the Dravidian style. There was a huge stone elephant and bull, as well. It was very beautiful. The guide showed me a cashew-nut tree in bloom, and a neem tree. He picked off a stem and showed me how people use it as a toothbrush. Feb. 6th Pat and I treated ourselves to a dinner buffet and Indian classical dance performance at the Mamalla Bhavan Annexe, a hotel in the town of Mahabalipuram. It cost 250 rupees, expensive in rupees, but only about $5 US! We arrived before 7pm for the evening performance. We were shown up to the roof, where a stage was set up. We were treated to a cool breeze! Before the performance, the young man and young woman dancer stood to one side of the small stage and prayed. Both wore green costumes, and both wore bells on their ankles. The man's costume was a green and white skirt-like outfit with a gold belt and gold trim. The woman's costume had red pleats in front. She wore a beautiful headdress and flowers in her hair. Her black hair was in one long braid extending far below her waist. An announcer with an exquisite voice told a bit of the history of each dance before they began. These are ancient spiritual dances going back at least 2800 years, at least. He showed us the meaning of a few of the precise hand and finger movements. During a dance where he represented Krishna, the man had the sweetest smile on his face. And the woman portrayed a wide range of emotions on her face. The dances were beautiful, the dancers graceful and very expressive. Dinner was served to us during the performance. It was very tasty! Feb. 7th Time is flying! It is hard to believe a week has gone by since our travels began. We reluctantly pack our suitcases. The beach, the hotel, and Mahabalipuram were so nice we hate to leave. We hire a taxi to take us to Pondicherry. Pondicherry was a French colony for some time in it's history, so there is supposed to be quite a bit of French influence. Since I wish to improve my French at some point, that is my main interest in the town. Also, the Aurobindo Ashram is in Pondicherry, and an idealized community created by the ashramites is nearby. I decide to travel on from here by myself, and parted company with my traveling companion, Pat. She stayed at a luxury hotel, and I went on with the taxi driver to search for a different location. I was tired, and the hotels that I looked at were not too great. I finally settled for a guest hotel named Shanti, and hoped it would be okay for one night. I would look for a better place the next day. The hotel clerk gave me a map of the city, showing ashram and government and tourist sites. The ashram is located in various buildings right in the city. It turned out that my guest house was only a five minute walk from the Information Bureau of the ashram. I went to the holy place in the ashram called the Samadi. The founders of the ashram, Sri Aurobindo, and Mother Mirra are buried there. It was a simple white marble structure, less than a yard tall, and several yards wide. There are beautiful flower decorations on top made from flower petals. Devotees stand for a few moments by it, praying. There is a raised flowerbox-like wooden box near the front side, filled with sand. Devotees light insence sticks and place them there. It is a quiet, peaceful place, shaded by a large tree. People sit nearby meditating or in quiet contemplation. I approached the Samadi, with no expectations. I began to feel the most powerful holy emanation coming from it that I have ever experienced in my life. I felt it in the atmosphere around me, and I felt it in every particle of my being. I was not even in a prayerful or meditative state. I just walked into this incredible, beautiful energy! This is an enormous surprise to me. If I felt this energy from a live holy person, I would not be so surprised. Not everyone feels this, so it must mean something for my spiritual path. Each one of us is unique in the spiritual experiences that we have. I certainly did not expect this; I had not heard of this happening. I am most pleasantly stunned, and in great appreciation! And I thought I was coming here to find out about learning French! Apparently there is more to my visit here than that! After this amazing introduction to Aurobindo and the Mother's energy, I followed my map to my next site, dinner! I went to the ashram dining hall, a few blocks away. I was told by a volunteer that I needed a guest pass to eat in the ashram, and usually that was reserved for people staying at the ashram. The volunteer told me to hurry to the Information Bureau, which closed at 6pm. It was 5:45pm! With pointers from the volunteer, and my trusty map, I arrived at the Information Bureau. I asked about a dinner pass, and shared my strong experience at the Samadi with the volunteer there. He said that since I had such a strong darshan, he would give me a food pass for 2 days! And he said that if I returned at 6:45am the next morning, he would try to find me a lodging in the ashram! For someone who arrived in total ignorance, I was well guided by those in the spirit world to just the right places at just the right times! The food pass costs 20 rupees, about 40 cents US, and includes breakfast, lunch and dinner. I bought the passes, and returned the short couple of blocks to the dining hall. The food is simple and pure vegetarian meals. There is no chili in it. I had some rice and a bowl of vegetable soup with many, many vegatables in it. It was very delicious. There was curd (yogurt) and milk for those who use dairy products, and dessert with ghee in it. I skipped those, as I am Vegan (no eggs, no dairy). I went home tired, took a bucket bath of hot water provided by the clerk, and went to sleep early. Feb. 8th I arrived at the Information Bureau. There were no rooms available yet. I was told to go eat breakfast and return. At 8am, next door to the Information Bureau, was one ashram guest house with room for just a few people. It is called the Cottage Guest House. I could check with them at 8:15am when they opened, and return to the Information Bureau for more help after that if needed. So I went to breakfast. I was feeling great trust that there was a room for me somewhere in the ashram. The ashram has a number of cottages or guest houses scattered around the area. After breakfast I returned. A Russian woman and her daughter were also waiting for the Cottage Guest House office to open. They were warm and friendly people, with bright, pretty blue eyes and brown hair. They invited me to room with them if I needed to. They were the first ones into the office when it opened. I still was trusting, and not worried about a place. There was a room for them with four beds. Again they invited me! I would have enjoyed their company, I am sure, but my inner feeling is to be alone now if I can. So they went off to pack their luggage and move in. I went to the desk. The volunteer offered me a single room for 60 rupees, but said it is on the 3rd floor. Here that means 4th floor to Americans. I said that would be hard for me; I had an apartment on that floor and had to move down. She said, you are lucky! There is one apartment on the first floor (which to Americans means the second floor), and it has air conditioning! It costs 200 rupees a night, about $4 US! Someone up there is looking after me!! She asked how long I needed it, and I said until the 15th morning. (I re-booked my train ticket for Feb. 15th instead of Feb. 14th.) She said that I could have the room until then! There was an auto-rickshaw on the street. I hopped into it, went to my guest house, packed, and was back within a few minutes to check into the ashram guest house! My room is huge, with two beds, an air conditioner, hot water in the bathroom, and scrupulously clean. It is cleaned daily. I can leave dirty clothes on the hall table, and they are washed, ironed, and returned in about a day for 2 rupees per piece, about 4 cents US! The room is old but nice. It is only a short distance from the dining hall, and a few short blocks further to the Samadi. When the ashram is not busy, guests can stay 15 days, and then ask for an extension of another 15 days. When it is a busy time, they can stay 10 days. There is a place to fill water bottles with pure water at the ashram dining hall. Also, there is a free clinic run by ashramites close by. I have gone there twice daily to get a small cut on my little toe cleaned and dressed. I cut the skin on my toe with my nail clippers very slightly the day before my travels began. I wear only open sandals in this heat, so dirt kept getting in, and it could not heal. Now it is almost cleared up. Because of the dirt and the heat in India, we need to be very careful to treat small cuts immediately. I keep a tiny plastic tube of Polysporin, a triple antibiotic cream, in my fanny pack. But I probably should have kept my toe covered at least with kleenex to keep dirt out, as well. Streets in the cities are paved, but not always all the way to the shops. Each shop puts its own stairs down to the street level. Then there is a strip of dirt between the shops and the pavement. And usually, that is the best place to walk. So it is very dusty. When there are sidewalks, they only extend the length of one particular business. They often have open holes and many uneven surfaces. Also, many stores, the ashram, and ashram dining hall, the ashram information bureau, and many other places request that shoes be left at the entrance. So one is barefoot and getting the feet dirty often here.
Feb. 13th I have had some pleasant and restful days here. I am happy being on my own. The ashram provides some inexpensive tours. One, for 40 rupees, goes to Auroville. I went on the Auroville tour. The bus seats were rather small for two people, but I managed to balance myself fairly comfortably. The bus drove through a busy main street in Pondicherry to go there. There was a lot of traffic. The majority of the traffic was bicycles, with a few auto-rickshaws, the occasional ox cart, and a few taxis. Our bus honked its way through the bicycles riders! We drove about 10 kilometers to Auroville. It is a community based on a Divine dream had by the Mother, Aurobindo's companion, a God-realized holy woman in her own development. Representatives of 186 nations and all the Indian states brought a handful of their native soil to form it's foundation. It is designed as a place for all people to live, and for children to grow, in touch with their soul. There were many varied colored bouganvillia shrubs lining the road as we neared the town. We went into a very attractive central information building made of tan handmade bricks. They are made of 5% cement and 95% soil. We saw a video about the Mother's dream and the realization of the town. The town is still growing and has land available for purchase for those drawn to live this dream. Passes are available here to return at certain times to meditate in the matrimandir. We hopped back in the bus for a short ride to the Matrimandir. This is a temple still under construction. We got out of the bus, and were told that we had to maintain silence from the start to the end of this tour, if we could not do that, to please not go. We walked silently in single file past beautiful gardens. Near the temple we left our sandals. The temple is a geodesic dome. The outside is being slowly covered by giant gold-colored lotus flowers. The entrance is dramatic, with red flagstones used like marble or brick work. Then we entered, and circular ramps led upwards and around. Near the top is an exquisite, enormous crystal. After lunch today I am going to the travel agent to finish working on my train tickets for the rest of my trip. So far, this is my itinerary, worked out with the help of a travel guide by Lonely Planet which I bought for 795 rupees. The guide has hotel information, tour information, everything needed to get around. Feb. 15th night, Feb. 16th day and night on a 2nd class sleeper car from Chennai (Madras) to New Delhi. I called some hotels from the guidebook, and made a reservation at the Smyle Inn, for 200 rupees a night! It is supposed to be clean and nice. Feb. 17, 18, and 19 in New Delhi. I plan to take two half day tours. Feb. 20, 21 in Jaipur, the city of the pink palaces. Feb. 22 Agra. I will see the Taj Majal. Feb. 23 Fatehpur Sikri. A deserted, but well preserved ancient city. Feb. 24 Agra again. Feb. 25 Varanasi, also known as Benares. This is where little candles are floated on the holy Ganges river. It is time to go to lunch now!
Subject: Fw: group email from North India Feb 14-22 Date: Hi folks, another group email from our "spiritual tourist" Jeannie Alvin
********************************************************* May All the Beings in All the Worlds be Happy!
-----Original Message----- From: Jeannie Alvin [mailto:jeannie_alvin@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 6:28 AM To: Vickie Jewell Subject: group email from North India Feb 14-22
Dear Vickie, please, add these new email addresses for the group email. When I get home, I'd like to learn from you how to send a whole folder at once!
Feb. 17, 18, and 19 in New Delhi. I plan to taketwo half day tours. Feb. 20, 21 in Jaipur, the city of the pink palaces. Feb. 22 Agra. I will see the Taj Majal. Feb. 23 Fatehpur Sikri. A deserted, but wellpreserved ancient city. Feb. 24 Agra again. Feb. 25 Varanasi, also known as Benares. This is where little candles are floated on the holy Gangesriver. Dear folks; Today I changed cities again! I will first tell you the rest of my schedule: Feb. 21 Agra Feb. 22 Agra, Fatepur Sikri (day trip by local bus, I think) Feb. 23 night train from Agra to Varanasi, 2nd class sleeper, very comfortable Feb. 24 Varanasi (also called Benares) close by is Sarnath, where the Buddha preached for the first time; 5 hours away, I am told, is Bothgaya, where the Buddha became enlightened under the Bodhi tree. I may go there for a night or two. Feb. 27 night train from Varanasi to Manmad, Shirdi Baba's ashram is located about an hour from there. I will stay one day there. Feb. 29 night train from Manmad to Dharmavaram, a few minutes from Puttaparti. Back to Sai Baba and my apartment and many friends. Here is what has been happening: Feb. 14th. I went to the train station with a travel agent to make my many train reservations. It is a good thing I went, as there was no space on one desired train. I needed to spend one day less in New Delhi to reserve a place to Agra. So I had to revise the rest of my schedule by one day. But the good thing is now I know how to make train reservations. It is not that hard. Just lots of forms to fill in with my last name, my age, which gets posted outside the train car! and a few other details, train number and city names. I discovered that the Russian ladies were planning to take a bus to Chennai (Madras) on the 15th, when I am going there. My train leaves Madras at 10 pm, theirs leaves the same station at 10:30pm. They are on a very, very skimpy budget. I had already decided to take a taxi, so I invited them to accompany me for the same as the bus would cost them. I was very drawn to them, and felt that there was a spiritual reason for the contact. Their eyes shine with the light of God! They are so beautiful. Their names are Anna and Natalia, from St. Petersburg, Russia. Feb. 15th Anna, the daughter, and Natalia, her mother, met me at 11:30am. We all checked out of our rooms and left our luggage in the hands of the ashram guest house watchman. We walked to the beach. The sun was too hot and strong to walk along the beach. We found a wide stone ledge in the shade just across the street from the beach. We shared a bit about ourselves. They had also been with Sai Baba in Puttaparti prior to coming to Pondicherry. We went for lunch at the ashram dining room, our last bowl of good vegie soup, rice and dal. 3pm Our taxi took us to the ashram tour stop, where I had hired the car. The man in the office said a warm goodbye to all of us, and gave me back 100 rupees of the taxi fare. He had managed to get the ashram car, and it was cheaper. We had a pleasant drive through the countryside. We reached the outskirts of Madras, and then drove quite a ways through the city to get to the train station. It was about 7 pm. A red traffic light stopped traffic in front of us. our taxi driver cut across the center lane at this very big intersection to try to squeeze forward a bit before the light changed. Whistles blew, and a traffic policeman signalled us to pull over. We pulled to the left and parked. The policeman came to the window. Anna heard him say 20 rupees to our driver. (I did not hear that.) Our driver got out and went with the policeman. Soon he came back and got in. He turned to us, and said, "Two hundred rupees, madame." Natalia said, with her Russian accent, "Not one r-r-rupee! It is not our problem, It is your problem. You pay." I did not say a word. The taxi driver told the policeman that we would not pay. The policeman said, "Station." The taxi driver got out again, and went behind the cab with the policeman. I was getting a bit worried. I said a prayer to Sai Baba and Ganesha. Later I discovered that Natalia was also doing just that! Immediately the driver came back, sat in his seat, started the car, and drove us off without another word. I said to him, "All finished?" He did not answer! Natalia said this was a scam between the policeman and the taxi driver to get money from us. That is when I found out that the original "fine" was 20 rupees! Luckily we had 3 hours before our trains left. Otherwise they would have scared us into paying to arrive on time. We arrived at the train station. I had paid the ashram office in full for the cab in Pondicherry. The driver asked for a tip. We were pretty disgusted with him because of the attempted scam. We turned our backs and walked off. He did not get a penny's tip. Natalia and Anna had taken a number of trains, and guided my first train trip. We went to the first class ladies waiting room. There were chairs, a table, toilets and showers. One woman was sleeping on the floor. An occasional man came in with his family.
We had two hours before our trains left. We took turns going to the cafeteria for food and watching over the luggage. I went to the cafeteria. I ordered vege cutlets. They were delicious mixtures of potatoes and a few green veges, fried. I was given ketchup with them. I had my trusty liter bottle of water in my water bottle holder. It has really come in handy when I travel. I can strap it over my shoulder, my hands are free, and I always have safe water. This is extra important in the heat of India. I then watched our luggage while Anna and Natalia ate. When they returned, Anna asked if I had a chain for my luggage. I could chain it under my seat for security. I did not have one. She said I could probably buy one in one of the railway shops. I went to look for one. I found a chain and padlock in a shop that sold a variety of food and water and travel items. It cost 20 rupees for the chain and 45 rupees for a padlock. As I shopped, I walked by platform 5, right in the middle of the station. My train was already there an hour early. I decided to go on early if I could. I asked, and discovered that I could board at any time. I returned to the ladies waiting room. I hugged Anna and Natalia goodbye. What exquisite energy I felt from each of them as I hugged them! So full of inner beauty! Anna helped me board my train while Natalia stayed with their luggage. She showed me how to look for my car. We found it, and she left. I boarded the train.
I did not realize when I booked the train that I should have asked for a lower berth. I did not relish climbing up metal stairs to the upper bunk that I was assigned. I said a quick prayer. One man was there already, locking his suitcases under a berth with his chain. I asked which was his bunk. He pointed to the lower one. I pointed to the upper one, and asked if he would be willing to swith with me. He quickly answered yes! He went up to that upper bunk (thank heavens for his kindness!), and stayed up there for that night, day, and the next night. He slept the whole time, day and night, and did not interact with anyone. I sat down in the lower berth, now like a sofa. Soon another passenger got on. He was a professor from a theological college in Madras, a teacher of religions! Does God take care of me, or what? You see, my sister-in-love Barb, and my brother Jim, (both very worried about my safety in India), how God takes care of me! His name is Professor Raju Thomas. We had some very interesting discussions that evening, and the next day. We were joined in conversation by a sweet young electrical engineer named Munnuwwar H., who wants to go to the US and study business courses. This young man impressed my highly with some innate gifts, one of which is an exquisite listening ability, followed by intelligent, thought-provoking questions. He has a slow, mellow pattern of speech. He seemed to bring a feeling of peace to our company of three when controversial issues were raised. If any of the readers of this email letter wish to aid him in some research regarding colleges in the US, their pros and cons; and also, the immigration procedure and rules about student employment for Indian people, please email him at munawwar_haque@usa.net. At about 10 pm, I decided to go to sleep. I used the yellow sleep sack that Mary Workman had sewed for me. It was perfect for the train. Sheets and blankets and pillows were supplied by the porters, but I was more covered in my sleep sack. The train was very restful. Its motion is much smoother than a bus going around and into potholes! It only rocks in one direction! I slept great, until the middle of the night. Raju, obviously walking and talking in his sleep, got down from his bunk and came to me and spoke excitedly in Hindi! I said, "English, English!" That was enough to wake him sufficiently for him to remember where he was! He returned to his bunk, covered up, (probably embarrassed!), and went back to sleep! So did I! The next day, he asked if I remembered the incident. I said yes. He said he thought he was at home, he thought there was an earthquake, and he thought he was waking his wife! We laughed about it! The second day passed in pleasant and interesting conversation. Meals were brought to us by porters. Once, one meal was too spicy for me. It tastes great, but I think that the spice is what was triggering my special India diet. So I am on a very light chili restriction, darn it. So I went to the pantry car. I was asked what I could eat. I told them my list, no milk, no cheese, no butter, no ghee, no chili. No problem, they said. I sat down on a little bench next to the kitchen. Another meal was soon placed before me. There was a heap of plain rice, and some yellow vegetables that were lightly spiced. I will just call them mystery vegetables, because I could not identify them. I needed a spoon. A very kind porter opened a box under his bench, and pulled out a spoon. He wiped it with his not too clean hands, to make sure it was clean! Then he took it to the kitchen and washed it! He proudly and happily brought it back to me. Then he took my spoon, and quickly dipped it into a jar, and dropped some gobs of whitish looking stuff on top of my rice! It was ghee! I made signals that I don't eat ghee, and asked with signals what to do. The poor porter, who was trying so hard to pamper and please me, motioned to the open window. So out the window went the ghee, and the spoon went back to the kitchen to get washed again! Then I ate, with the porter watching to make sure I enjoyed it. He was so sweet! The yellow veges were very tasty. I asked the cook how much I owed for the special dinner. He said, "No charge, we just want you to be satisfied." I think this was one of those special times when I am obviously a foreigner, and I get special pampering. I feel both pampered and pleased, and a bit embarassed when this happens.
Feb. 17th The train arrives in New Delhi around 8 am. I keep an eye on Munawwar's many packets as he gets off the train. Then he gives me directions on how to get out of the station towards my hotel, close to the station.
I accept a porter's help with my luggage. The Lonely Planet guide book warned about a scan with the porters. They tell you that your hotel is booked and full, and guide you to a hotel where they will get a commission. I asked the porter to show me to the bazaar street near my hotel. Instead, he did just what the guide book warned about! He took my suitcase up some stairs to another hotel, and said they had very good rates. I ignored all this, pointed to my suitcase and demanded that he bring it down right then. He did. I gave him his 10 rupees, and took my own suitcase. It is the small carry-on size with wheels and a handle. Then a friendly person guided me to the other direction, to the street I needed. By asking now and then, I found my way to the turn-off to my hotel, the Smyles Inn. I arrived before the previous day's guests had checked out. I left my luggage at the desk, immediately trusting the young Tibetan men who worked there. I went for breakfast at a German Bakery down the bazaar street. I had porridge and fruit salad, then returned to my hotel. Soon a nice room was ready for me. It had a nice tile bathroom and a clean bed. I called the government tour agency listed in my guide book. I took a half day tour that afternoon. I saw the Red Fort, an enormous fort built in the 1600's by the builder of the Taj Majal. Then I saw an ancient tomb called Humayun's Tomb, with an interesting mosque next to it. I took some nice photos, already developed at a one hour photo lab! I was taught in Pondicherry how to work my new camera. After losing the first roll of film due to not knowing how to rewind the film, I now am succeeding in getting photos. The climate is cool at night here. Two blankets are welcome on the bed. My sweatshirt is enough to keep me warm during the day.
Feb. 18th I took the morning half day tour. Each of these tours cost only 85 rupees, about $2 US! They were wonderful, informative, interesting and fun. I like being sheparded around, being told the main points, then getting back on the bus to the next site. This is a wonderful service offered by the Indian government. Most of the tourists are Indian tourists, not just foreigners. This tour took me to an observatory built in the 1700's, one of four built in India at about that time. I took some photos, and enjoyed looking around. Then we went to Qutub Minar, built in the 12th century. This was quite a large collection of ancient buildings, a complete neighborhood from the 12th century! I found this the most facinating of anything I had yet seen. I took lots of photos. This was so beautiful and interesting. I took a photo of the young Tibetan desk workers at the Smyles Inn. Feb. 19th I woke up at 4:30am. My train leaves at 6:15am for Jaipur. I want to leave my hotel at 5:15am. The young Tibetan desk workers say goodbye. One of them carries my suitcase to the bazaar street and helps me bargain for an auto rickshaw. He turned down the first one, and got me one for 10 rupees! The 10 rupees he saved went to him, for carrying my bag. I am glad I paid only 10 rupees, because the rickshaw driver did not drive me into the station. He let me out on the road in front of the station. I wheeled my suitcase towards the entrance. I had gone in the night before to see where to look for my platform. I headed in that direction. Soon a porter came and wanted 20 rupees to carry my suitcase. I said, "No, 10 rupees." There is a sign in the railway station saying the charge is 9 rupees for up to 40 kg. He left, but soon another one came up. He agreed to take my suitcase for 10 rupees. We went to the sign with platform numbers. Mine was platform number 2. It was close. My suitcase was marked with chalk with number 13, my seat number, and an A for Agra. It was stowed in the luggage hold, and I was asked for 2 rupees. The bus ticket only cost 114 rupees for the five and a half hour trip, plus 25 rupees service charge that I paid the hotel. The hotel got the bus ticket for me, and it was waiting for me at the front desk at 7am. This service of getting the tickets helps a great deal with the language barrier! I don't have to try to communicate with someone who does not speak much English. The seats were small and close together, like airplane seats. They had a tray for meals that lowered from the seats in front. I was pretty crowded. It was okay for the five plus hours, but a longer trip would have been tiresome. Tea, cookies, and candy were soon served! I skipped all of them, because all the cookie labels I have read here contain dairy products, I don't drink caffiene. And the candy was chocolate, which also has dairy products. I was pretty sleepy, and dozed a bit.
At about 9am, breakfast was served. I asked for plain hot water in the tea vacuum bottle. I put an American raspberry tea bag in it, a gift from June before I left. June searched her house for small things that would bless my journey just before I left San Diego. I was given a little foil tray with green peas, butter separate luckily. There were two vege cutlets of some sort, and four french fries! Also, I was given 2 slices of white bread and a packet of jam. The man next to me had an omelette. Adequate, and fun to eat. Later, free cokes were served! As we approached Jaipur, the land became craggy and barren. I began to see camels pulling carts! I saw more camels than oxen pulling carts here. There are also a number of horse-drawn carts. Soon we arrived in Jaipur.
11:40am I took an auto rickshaw to the Hotel Sweet Dream. The bed was comfortable, the bathroom decent. And there was a veggie restaurant on the roof, open from 7am to 11pm. They also had room service. I love having my meals in my room when I am very tired. I had a meal at the restaurant. The house specialty was called "Sweet Dream Curry." (These names are not very imaginative! Midway restaurant, Sweet Dream Curry at the Sweet Dream Hotel!) It was delicious, with fruit and peas, curry and rice. I also ate some sliced tomatoes with lime juice squeezed on them. I had arranged with the auto-rickshaw driver to take me on a half day tour for 100 rupees. I was unable to go in the first site he took me. The next sites were next to each other. They were the Observatory and the City Palace. The City Palace cost 130 rupees, and seemed like it could take quite some time. I asked the auto-rickshaw driver where else he planned to take me. I was not impressed. One of his plans was a shopping stop, and I had told him no shopping. He had only driven me a little ways, so I paid him 30 rupees for that. I told him that I did not want the rest of his tour, and I dismissed him. I went into the City Palace, where I hired a licensed guide for 150 rupees, the posted rate. I had a very good guide with a great sense of humor. He showed me some enormous silver urns, about 5 feet tall. The majaraja (king) was told that if he drank water from the holy river Ganges, his next life would be his last. And then he would attain paradise.
So he had two enormous silver urns made. He filled them with holy Ganges water. When he traveled to England, he took his own water!! The guide said that if we now drink the Ganges water at Calcutta, down the river, we might not have to wait for our next life to reach paradise! It is so polluted! There were many interesting exhibits: clothing from the majarajas and maharanis, art work, many old artifacts. There were palanquins that the royalty rode on elephants, others that were pulled by oxen. There were a number of horse carriages. There were many buildings, and exquisite interiors. The last majaraja is in his late 60's, and lives in one part of the palace. Due to a change in the laws, he no longer can use the title majaraja. He is just like the other citizens, although quite a wealthy one! I was tired after seeing City Palace. I decided to see the Observatory the next day. Feb. 20 I took a government tour from 11:30am to 6:30pm for 85 rupees to see more of Jaipur. These tours are very good value, and very enjoyable. First we went to the Observatory. This was built by the majaraja, who was very interested in astronomy and horoscopes. There are sundials which still are accurate, one within 20 seconds and larger one, within 2 seconds. There were many complicated instruments for measuring where the sun and stars were. There were instruments for each sign of the Zodiac. Next, the tour went to the City Palace. I rested outside in the shade of a tree near our bus, gently supervised by our driver, who kept an eye out for me. I ordered some somosas, potato snacks, from a vendor, and something else, a flat round snack. The driver said that the something else was too spicy for foreigners! So I just got two samosas. After a nice rest, our group came to the bus. We drove past a landmark called the Water Palace, on our way to Amber (also called Amer) Fort. We drove a few kilometers. To my surprise and delight, there were some jeeps waiting for us! We piled into the jeeps, seven to a jeep. Upwards on a cobblestone road we went, up a steep incline. We passed a tiny village clinging to the side of the hill. Every so often, we passed an elephant and rider going up the road! We arrived at the fort and de-jeeped! We had more of a climb to enter the fort. As we entered the main courtyard, we saw monkeys, a number of elephants and riders, and a goat. Two monkeys were sitting on low wall near me. They were very cute. I was thinking of taking their picture. Suddenly, one of them hopped down, ran to the little girl standing in front of me, and grabbed the orange that she was holding in her hand! Off he ran with his booty! He was back on his wall and eating it within seconds. The little girl was scared and crying. The fort had become a palace at some point in its history. We saw wonderful rooms and buildings. The majaraja's bedroom was octoganal or round, I forget. It had little mirrors embedded in the walls and ceilings. The guide had the doors shut. He lit two candles in the dark room. The effect was marvelous! This is a desert, cool now in winter, but hot in the summers. The majarajas had an early air conditioning system. They had an urn with scented rose water. It ran into a copper pipe that was by the outer ceiling. There were small holes in the copper pipe for the scented water to stream down. It was caught by the breeze, and the scented air was cooled! The guide pointed out some black looking buildings that were the old palace, more than 1,000 years old! We left the palace building by ramps that went down. The ramps used to be used by the maharanis when they were carried in their palanquins. We drove a bit in our jeeps to a handicrafts store. We had a demonstration of block printing. I really enjoy this sort of thing. I don't care much to buy much, but I love to see how things are created. I took some photos of the block printing procedure. The block was an elephant, carved out of teak wood. It was first dipped into yellow paint, then green paint. Then some specially treated ingredients were put on it. The cloth turned red. It was very pretty, and very interesting. Then we went in the shop. If I wanted to buy a saree, this would be the place. They were beautiful. They had tye-dyed cotton, and silk. There was also a jewelry shop. Jaipur is supposed to be a good place to get semi-precious jems. I had a bit of food in the canteen. The cooks made me some vege curry. It was delicious. Then I rode back in the jeep with our guide, and we went back to our bus. Our last stop was a beautiful Hindu temple. There was a beautiful small building with a statue of Shiva. The interior of the main temple building was gorgeous. There was a transparent marble bas-relief of Ganesha outside the building. You could see the outline of Ganesha inside the building, through the transparent marble. I was very tired, and glad to have room service back at my hotel. I followed that by a bucket bath, and bed. I had to get up early the next morning for my bus trip to Agra. Feb. 21st I woke up early, and packed up to travel again. I picked up my bus ticket from the front desk of the Hotel Sweet Dream, and took an auto rickshaw to the bus station. The bus ticket cost 114 rupees for the five and a half hour trip to Agra. And having the hotel handle buying it for me for 25 rupees saved me from dealing with the language barrier, a frequent occurance. I was not sure how I would find my bus, if no one spoke English. But as soon as I arrived in the auto rickshaw, a porter came up to me. He spoke to me in English. I asked which bus went to Agra. He pointed to it. He carried my suitcase to the bus. The conductor marked my seat number, 13, and an 'A' for Agra on my suitcase with chalk. He put it in the luggage hold in the rear of the bus, and asked me for 2 rupees. I boarded the bus, and soon we were off. The bus is more crowded and less comfortable than the train. But it is not bad for this length of journey. After two and a half hours, we stopped at a rest stop called Midway. It had a restaurant, a shop for tourist stuff, and restrooms. It was surrounded by green lawns, with some chairs and tables outside as well as inside. I ordered 2 iddlis and sambar. They arrived, looking like sambar soup with idlis floating in it! I asked for a plate, and spooned my idlis out. I was being careful not to eat too much chili. After only 10 or 15 minutes, the bus driver honked. We all got back on, and resumed our journey. We arrived in Agra about 2pm. When I had made my hotel reservation for Agra, the clerk at the Hotel Sakura told me that the hotel was right at the last Agra stop. The conductor called out "Agra," and many people got off. I asked, "Hotel Sakura?" The conductor said, stay on. In another couple of minutes, we arrived. I went into the hotel and asked to look at the room. It was one of the cleanest and nicest budget rooms I have had yet, for 200 rupees per night. It has hot water in the morning and at night, at about 7 am and 7 pm. I was told that the Taj Majal is closed every Monday. It was Monday. So I decided to rest, and type this email letter. I read email and typed for 3 hours. My fingers were almost getting blisters from typing for so long! A young girl said, "Auntie, you had better stop for tonight. Otherwise you will get ill. You can type again tomorrow!" I decided that the voice of wisdom was speaking! I quit for the night. I decided to email myself the letter, and continue it soon.
Feb. 22 I decided against taking the government tour here. It costs 700 rupees! So instead I took a local bus the 40 kilometers to Fatehpur Sikri, for 14 rupees! Much better. I had a window seat. I was a bit crowded by the man dozing beside me. I put my water bottle as a barrier between my leg and his, and felt more comfortable. When he dozed and leaned against me, I tapped him gently. He woke up and quit leaning! Part way to Fatehpur Sikri, we seemed to have a breakdown. We pulled over to the side of the road by a repair shop. I heard hammering near the front tire. There was a lot of conversation in a language I did not understand. I decided to pray to Ganesha, to overcome this obstacle. Very quickly, the hammering stopped. I put my head out the window to see what I could see. Very soon, a small boy, about 8 years old, crawled out from under the bus. He was holding a sledge hammer! Apparently he finished the job, with Ganesha's help, within seconds. We continued on our way with no further problems. We reached Fatehpur Sikri. I got off the bus, and was immediately approached by a "licensed guide." I told him I needed to get film for my camera first. He took me to a nearby shop. I bought the film. Then the shopkeeper showed me a journal type book, with entries from various tourists. The page he had open to show me warned against these "licenced guides," and said that no guide was necessary for the mosque. And real licensed guides would be by the ticket stand in the palace. So you see, Dear Barb and Jim, friends, and family, I am alway guarded and guided! Again the phony "licensed guide" tried to get me to take a "shortcut" on a deserted path up the side of the mountain! I turned this down, and continued through the small town. Soon signs guided me to the monuments. First I toured the enormous mosque. It also had a tomb of a saint and holy man. Then I went to see the palace. This was built as a new capital city in 12 years by Akbar. The lake nearby dried up, and there was no water. So after a very short number of years, this beautiful city was deserted. It remains in very good condition, with many of the buildings intact. Much mosaic work and paintings have disappeared over the centuries, but so much remains. It is an entire small ghost city. I hired a guide for 65 rupees. He took me through the large area, through buildings, stables, and gardens. I took many photos. This king believed that there was one God, called different names by different religions. He created a new religion, uniting Hindu, Jain, Christian, Jewish, and Moslems. The artwork on the buildings reflects styles from all these religions. And he had wives from various religions! One named Maryam was Christian! She had a gold palace! I spent a couple of hours wandering in these ruins. Then I had lunch at the Maura Rest House. I ate tomato and potato curry, cooked with onion. It was a light lunch, and very tasty. Perfect. One of the brothers, I believe, who works there, had seen Sai Baba at Kodaicanal a couple of years ago.
Tomorrow I will see the Taj Majal! I will then take a sleeper-car on a night train to Varanasi. The Buddha is calling me!!! He began his enlightenment and preaching near there!!! __________________________________________________
Date: 27 february 2000 17:26 Subject: Jeannie in Varanasi, Feb. 23-27 ********************************************************* May All the Beings in All the Worlds be Happy!
Feb. 23rd Agra I spent about an hour and a half in the Taj Mahal. It was really enough time for me. I enjoyed the beauty of it. But I have seen so many beautiful structures made of marble in the various majarajas palaces, that one hour and a half was sufficient. They are beautiful, but I am now getting satiated with seeing palace after palace. I am having a sense that it is time to explore the inner world more, with more meditation. I am looking forward to being at Shirdi Sai Baba's ashram on Feb. 28th, and back to Sathya Sai Baba's ashram on March 1st. I am looking forward to seeing my friends in my apartment building, George, Barbara, Steve, Gabriele, Margaret, and looking forward to seeing Darshan at his computer shop again. These are friends I will never forget. I am getting on the night train to Varanasi. There was no room in the 2nd class air-conditioned sleeper. I settled for regular sleeper class. I paid an extra hundred rupees to stay during the whole day in my hotel room. Then I took an auto-rickshaw to the train. I stood on platform one to wait for my train. There were many Indian people waiting for trains. As they waited, many of them lay down on the cement platform and slept! My train arrived at 10pm. I located my car, S1, and found my name and age posted on the computer paper taped to the train car. I was in berth S4. I got on.
It was dark, and people were already sleeping. There were six berths on the left, an aisle, and two more berths on the right. The aisle was full of people. It was a lot like being in line at darshan at Puttaparti. Just add lots of suitcases and duffelbags to the picture. People were totally self-centered; there seem to be no such thing as the concept of a gentleman here. This was not a comfortable experience. I discovered that I was near berth 71. I got off the train. It was easier to get to S4 from the far door, and not try to make my way through the crowded, dark aisle. There was a conductor at the other door. I asked him if I could upgrade my ticket to 2nd class air-conditioned. He said I could if there was space. He said there was time for me to check. So I walked, dragging my small suitcase on wheels behind me, and carrying my backpack and water bottle. My fanny pack was securely around my waist. It has been a godsend on this trip, safe from pickpocketers and worry. I walked about seven cars up the train on the platform. I spoke to the conductor there, who said there was no space until 3:30am. So I turned around and walked back down the platform. I boarded my car. I made my way through the people to my berth. It was in the closest area to the entrance door, and the closest sleeper car to the unreserved car. People were crowded in there, and overflowing into the sleeper car, and the space where we enter the train. There were more people in my section than there were berths. I chained my suitcase and backpack to a handle made for this purpose under the berth. I took out my yellow sleep sack. It is a queensized flat sheet sewn across the bottom, with snaps on the top half to open it. My friend Mary Workman made it for me a couple of years ago. It is getting used on train cars, and in hotels where the cleanliness of the sheets is dubious! I spread out my sleepsack and laid down. A man sat by my feet. As there was plenty of room, and he was not bothering me, I did not say anything. His wife and two children slept in a berth across from me. I fell asleep to be awakened by someone bumping my legs. Another man had come and sat by the first man. I motioned for him to leave. He got up, I went back to sleep. Soon I was awakened again. The same man came back, sat down again, and bumped me again. I asked about his ticket. He had one for the unreserved car. I asked him to leave again. The first man was careful, and never bumped me. I went back to sleep, trying to keep my equanimity. Would you believe it, soon I was awakened again. Same story! I told the man to leave and not come back.
I went back to sleep again, needing more inner work to regain my equanimity. I was soon awakened again!!! Instead of bumping my feet, this same clumsy man was now putting down a blanket in the aisle between the berths. He could have done it and slept, if he had not woken me up. I was not pleased about him being so close to my backpack. I got up, told him to leave and not come back. I said I was going to get the conductor. I went the length of three cars looking for the conductor. Finally my passage was blocked by a door that did not open. No sign of a conductor. I returned to my berth. I decided to do the best I could to sleep through the night. The bothersome man seemed to take me more seriously now that I went to find the conductor. He was nowhere in sight. Feb. 24th. I slept through the night. When I woke up, there was that man again! He was sitting on the berth in the aisle, sharing it with the rightful occupant. I decided to look for a ticket master on the platform when the train stopped at a station. I did not want to get off the train in case it might leave. From the doorway of the train, I saw two men in police uniforms, with rifles. This is a common sight here. I told them of the problem. They boarded the train, spoke to the man. They took him to another location. After a while they came back with a clipboard. They said they were there to help foreigners. They asked me to write the problem on their form. I was glad to do this. I was not bothered by that man after that, thank heavens! We arrived in Varanasi about 11:30am. The Lonely Planet guide book warned against the coolie and rickshaw scams regarding hotels. They tell you that your hotel is full, or there is a strike, or it is flooded, or whatever they think up. Then they want to take you to a hotel where they will get a commission for taking you. I paid a porter 10 rupees to carry my suitcase up the stairs and over the train tracks to the station. I had him take it to the Tourist Office located there. In the Tourist Office I asked about tours of Varanasi. I was told that private or group tours are arranged for 404 to 800 rupees, but there are no pre-set routes, as in Delhi and Jaipur. I did not want to pay that much. I asked how much to pay a rickshaw driver to go to my hotel. I was told 25 rupees, and given a free map of the city. Now the fun began. The rickshaw drivers wanted much more than 25 rupees. Finally one agreed. He asked me where I was staying. I told him the Hotel Ganges on the Dasamaw. Ghat Road. He said, "Impossible. Autos are not allowed in. It is so crowded you will be pushed. (They know westerners don't like to be crowded, so this is a common ploy.) I said, "No problem." He said, "You don't know how bad it is. They will spit on you! Let me show you another place, madame, then you can decide. " He was trying very hard to take me somewhere he wanted me to go. I said, "No, take me to this place." So we went to the auto-rickshaw, and another man got in with him. I have learned never to allow this. I feel safer if there is one man, and he is fully occupied with his driving. So I said, "No, only one person." So the original man said, "Okay, you go with him." And I went with the second driver. For my 25 rupees he took me as far as the autos go. Then I was to walk a little ways in the old city to my hotel. The street was very crowded with bicycles, people walking, and cycle rickshaws. Many people called, "Madame" for this or that reason. I walked towards the area I believed my hotel was located, wheeling my suitcase behind me. A young man told me he could guide me to the Hotel Ganges. He said he was a student. (Another common ploy, according to the guidebook. Then they want to take you to their uncle's shop to get you to buy sarees, or something.) I agreed that he could take me to my hotel. He carried my suitcase, and located the hotel. It was a crowded block and a half up the road.
I offered him some rupees for carrying the suitcase. He declined, saying he just wanted to be my friend. Then he invited me to look at his uncle's shop!!! I told him no thank you. I checked into the hotel. I looked at several rooms, and picked the one with the cleanest bathroom. Only 200 rupees a night, and there is hot running water for bucket baths. I have learned from experience now, so I asked for a clean bucket and an extra white sheet. (They only provide one, but give another happily when asked.). I was brought a new bucket, my extra sheet, and a very white towel. Three vege. restaurants mentioned by the guide book were within a block of my hotel. And a bank for cash advances was in the same building as my hotel. I took a walk through the old city, guided by another "student." This one wanted to take me to his guru to get my fortune told. I would see the Golden Temple on the way. We walked through lanes one and two meters wide. This city is at least 3,000 years old. And this is the oldest part. There were many small temples above shop stalls, and embedded in old buildings. I stopped to get samples of perfume oils on my hand. Very beautiful. We came to the Golden Temple. It was very beautiful, with a ton, literally, of gold on the roof. Then we went on to find the guru. I decided to get my fortune told for fun. The guru was very nice, and said the money was for an ashram, not for him. I paid 400 rupees for him to read my palm and lines on my forehead. I declined the 600 rupee full reading, with horoscope. Among other things, he told me I would live to be 87 years old. He told me some other nice things, but nothing I did not already know about myself. I accepted a request from the student to see a silk shop. I saw exquisite silk brocade scarves. But I need nothing, unless I find more silk skirts and matching blouses that I like. So I soon got up to leave. Some children and my "student" guide went out into the small lane ahead of me. I was near the doorway, when I heard snorting and stomping and people yelling, "Bullfight!" The children and the student ran back into the shop! Two bulls passed by, followed by a calf! One of the bulls was in pursuit of the other! This was in one of those narrow lanes!!! This all happened in split seconds!. Before arriving at my hotel, my guide offered me some powder and little stamps to put the powder on between the eyes as 'bindis.' The sales here never end. It is tiresome. My heart sunk when he did this. But I liked what he was offering, and had not seen it before. I decided to get it for my women friends at the Sai center in San Diego. Some of them dress in Indian clothes, and wear 'bindis.' It is small enough to fit in my small suitcase. I hardly buy anything, and when I do, it must be very small. I had left some film to be developed at a one hour camera store. When I picked up my film, I was told that something was wrong with my camera. The photos had very poor focus. I was told to bring the camera in to be checked. Perhaps they could fix it. (Or perhaps not, and they could sell me another camera.) Back at my hotel, I met some young American women in the lobby. We smiled at each other. I told them that it was nice to see someone who was not trying to sell me something! They agreed, and said that was very "heavy" to deal with. I agree that it is very intense. Their names were Kirsten and Jessica. They had met in Nepal, where they were trekking. We swapped travel stories. They told me that they were taking a tour for only 150 rupees the next morning. I could go along if I wanted. They left me with their hotel phone number, where the tour would start. Their hotel was called the Radiant YMCA Tourist Hostel, and the tourist office there was planning the tour. It would include a sunrise boatride, and a factory tour. I called the tour guide, and arranged to be at that hotel before 6am, to join the tour. I ate dinner for 30 rupees at one of the Veggie cafes near my hotel. I found another camera store, and showed the man my photos. He looked at my camera. He said nothing was wrong with my camera. I only needed new batteries! So the other people in the first camera store may have been trying another scam! I set my alarm clock for 5 am. I went to sleep early, tired after my interrupted sleep on the train the previous night. Feb. 25th I woke up, and looked at the time. 6am! I had set the clock, but forgot to turn on the alarm! I was disappointed, now I would miss the tour. But if I hurried, I could still see the sun rise over the Ganges at 6:15am, and hire my own boat. I decided to find a positive reason why this disappointment happened, despite the obvious reason that I forgot to set the clock. Life works better if we believe everything happens for the best, even when it does not seem like it at the time. I decided that it was a warning, so that I do not miss a train. It might not be so easy to straighten out that kind of error. I would remember, and make sure I turned the alarm on, especially for train times. I threw on some clothes, hurriedly brushed my teeth, and ran downstairs. The hotel clerk said he would send someone with me to find a boatman. Otherwise I would be overcharged. These sweet, considerate incidents make up for the sales hassles and attempted scams. We were only on the street for a moment when an older man offered to take me on his boat. He asked for 120 rupees, and settled for 100 rupees for an hour trip. We walked to the river. The ever-present vendors were selling candles on little tin-foil plates, and flowers to float in the river. I am too burnt out on vendors to want anything from them. They have talked to death this sales prospect! The boatman got his wooden row boat, big enough for about 6 people. I climbed in, rocking the boat a bit. I carefully sat down in the middle of the seat. We boated down the river. He was my guide, as well, with a few words of English. He pointed out the ghats, temples on the banks of the river, facing the river. He told me which majaraja built them, and more or less when they were built. There were many, one right after another. People bathe in the Ganges, and walk in to do their worship service. Women walk right in, fully dressed in their sarees. Men strip to their underwear, or wear a cloth around their waist. One lady was immersed up to her neck. She was doing puja (worship) with a metal vase. She filled and emptied it, praying as she did so. I took some photos. Then the boatman turned the boat up the river. He took me to the ghat where bodies are cremated. This is a holy site for cremation for Hindu people. I saw gray piles of ash. The boatman said that had been a cow! Then we turned down river. We went to the place where we started. I paid the boatman his 100 rupees, and thanked him for a very nice trip. I pretended I did not hear him when he asked for 20 rupees more for 'baksheesh' (tip). I went in search of Vishnu's footprint. My guidebook said it was near the burning ghats. They were just a bit upriver from where I was. I made my way through the narrow lanes. I asked for the name of the well where the footprint was located. I found my way to the burning ghats. I went to look. This is just business as usual to the people here, and it is okay to look. A friendly young man told me much about it. Lepers, smallpocks victims, children under 10 years, and pregnant women are not cremated. Their bodies are simply put in the Ganges. For cremation, women are shrouded in blue, I think he said. Men are shrouded in white. They were just lighting a fire under a male body, wrapped in white. It was a little gross for me; I decided to leave. The friendly young man asked me if I wanted to make a donation to buy firewood for poor people who came to die near the Ganges. Another scam! I declined. He was not happy. "You don't want to make a donation!" he said in surprise. "No," I replied for the second time. I ignored his grumbles to his friends, and went on, in search of Vishnu's footprint. There was a canopy nearby, with a little fence guaarding something in the center. I went to look. There were some small stone carved footprints, about the size of a two year old's feet. I had found Vishnu's footprints, I think! I took a photo. I took a cycle-rickshaw to the monkey temple. It took a very long time to get there, and it was just supposed to be a couple of kilometers away, according to my guidebook. When I got there, I found out that it was a Budddha's temple, not the monkey temple. I paid the cycle rickshaw driver what we had agreed upon, despite my being at a different temple than my destination. The cycle rickshaw driver had misunderstood me. I was later to feel guilty for underpaying him. He had cycled the 10 kilometers to Sarnath, where Buddha had preached for the first time. He had misunderstood me, not speaking English. He missed the part about the monkey temple, but heard me say I wanted to go to Sarnath later. I would have paid him more if I realized where he brought me. I went in search of him, to pay him more. But he had gone. I would not have taken a cycle rickshaw so far. I like to take them for short distances, because they use their own body strength to cycle. Whoops! I entered the gardens. The temple was closed until 1:30pm. A kind man tried to sell me a Buddha statue carved out of stone. I declined. I sat down and looked at the Bodhi tree, similar to the one where the Buddha reached enlightenment. The man took my photo with the tree in the background with my camera. I walked around the grounds, a large park. The salesman came with me, now my guide! Every so often he tried to get me to buy his statue. I declined each time. I saw deer in the fenced deer park, also closed until 1:30pm. I saw an ancient stupa built in the second century, I believe. Then I decided to get lunch, to fill the time until the temple opened. Sarnath is a quiet suburb, with just a little bit of commerce around the holy site. I checked one vege restaurant, but left it because there were too many flies in it, coming through the open front of the restaurant. I had seen another restaurant with doors and windows, so I decided to go there. I walked slowly over to the other restaurant. I did a bit of window-shopping, declining offers to come in, and just look (looking is free, madame!). I went into the other restaurant, called the Holiday Inn! It was cleaner, and had many fewer flies. After ordering, I asked if there was a ladies toilet. "Yes, come," the waiter told me. He pointed to the rear of the restaurant, past some diners in the garden area. I went to where I thought he pointed. I opened a door to see a bed with someone sleeping in it! Another bathroom adventure! Whoops! I quietly closed the door, hoping I had not woken the occupant. I went back and asked the waiter to show me this time. He came further with me, and I saw a building further back that said, "Ladies." I did better this time! My meal was very good. It was vegetable curry, with many vegetables. I had a chapati (flat bread) with it. Then I went back to the park across the street. The temple was now open. I sat on the floor in front of the Buddha's statue. I felt very strongly the Divine energy that permeated the temple. The orange robed priest offered to take me around the altar. I accepted. We walked around the statue. He told me that a relic with Buddha's ashes had been recovered, and was buried 10 feet below the statue. That may account for the strong Divine energy I felt there. The priest told me that he had been a monk since age 12, and that he was originally from Sri Lanka. He was very nice, and very mellow. He had big, luminous dark eyes. I bought a book about the Buddha's teachings, and left. I hired an auto rickshaw to take me to the monkey temple. I was taken in due time to the Durga temple. It is right next to a river, and painted bright red. I dismissed the driver there. Then, after seeing this temple, I hired a cycle rickshaw to take me back to my hotel. This driver was so sweet. He wanted to take me to some more temples on my way home. He took me to the Monkey temple! After 3 tries, I finally got to the Monkey temple! It is named the monkey temple because of the many monkeys that were there. But I did not see one monkey. I did enjoy seeing the temple though, and feeling the beautiful energy that exists where people habitually pray. That energy is exquisite. The driver took me to see the Tulsis Manas Temple, and one other temple. Both were more modern, and very, very beautiful. I took some photos. Then I insisted on going to my hotel, as I was very tired. Feb. 26th I decided that I had felt the Buddha's energy at Sarnath. I decided not to travel to Bodhgaya. Instead I would have two quiet days before boarding the train for Manmad, and Shirdi Sai Baba's ashram. I ate, walked to the river, and enjoyed my quiet day. I was tired, and rested in my room. I looked at photos, and wrote memos on the back of them. I heard a lot of noise, people shouting. I asked the man at the hotel desk what it was. I thought it might be another bullfight! No, it was a student strike. They had closed the street at the main intersection. Many of the shopowners closed their shops. I think they feared the student unrest. A student had been killed, and that was why they were striking. The shopowners were being cautious. I ate lunch at the Temple Restaurant, where I could enter from the second floor of my hotel. I had a view of the street from the balcony where I sat. Nothing happened. Soon the strike quieted down and ended. Later in the afternoon, I looked in my guidebook to see if there was anything else I wanted to see in Varanasi. There was a fort called Ram Nagar Fort. It was located down the river, and across a bridge. I went in search of an auto rickshaw. We drove quite a ways. The streets got narrower and narrower. Then the ashphalt road changed to a brick type cobblestone road, even narrower. Then that gave way to a dirt road, next to the river. I spotted the rickety bridge in the distance! Auto rickshaws must not have shock absorbers. On city streets, they are a bumpy ride. But it really jarred me, bouncing up and down on the cobblestone road, and the bumpy dirt road. This is jeep country, not auto rickshaw country! Then we got on the bridge. It was made of old boards, very rough, on top of huge metal pontoons that float in the water. There are two metal strips for tires over the boards. But the auto rickshaws two rear tires bumped on the boards! It was awful! I endured it, and then we bumped ashore onto another dirt, then cobblestone road. We passed ancient decrepit buildings. We arrived at the fort. I looked around inside and paid my 7 rupees to go in the museum. There were ancient ox-pulled palanquins, very old automobiles, old bows and arrows, flintlock guns and other old guns. An elderly man working inside the museum begged some rupees from me, saying, "baboo, baboo (baby)." I shook my head no, and continued on. I saw beautiful small ivory carvings, enclosed in a glass case. Then there were a few ancient stuffed real animals, relics of some hunts in days past. There was another section of the museum. I saw an enormous sea shell. It must have been 15 or 16 inches wide, and a foot high. There were some old clocks and old glassware. There was also another old employee who asked me for rupees. This can be tiresome. I returned to the auto rickshaw. I asked the driver to go very slowly! He did! He was a sweet man. We slowly bumped our way back over the bridge, and back to the asphalt road. When we arrived back in town, I paid him his fare, plus an extra 10 rupees for going slowly. Feb. 27th I walked to the Ganges. I bought an orange and a banana, and ate them in the morning sun. I bought some bags of fruit to give to the beggars. There were some lepers who I had fed yesterday, and more beggars on the steps leading to the ghats. I distributed the fruit, and also got some puree, a good breakfast for 6 rupees each, for 2 lepers. They had the fruit also. So at least they have a good nutritional start to their day. I sat on the steps by the river for quite a while. Then I went for breakfast. I passed some people feeding the poor on the sidewalk. They cooked right there in an enormous vat. I am glad to see this, and would like to see more like it! Then I came here to type, and have been here since 9:30am. It is now 1:15pm! I have to go back to my hotel soon! Checkout time is normally noon! I need to arrange to stay this afternoon, and leave about 7:30pm for my night train to Manmad! So goodbye for now! Much love to all my family and friends. Email me, I will read it when I get a chance!
March Hello, everyone; I am home from India; this email could not get forwarded right away because Vickie, who was forwarding it, moved; and then her computer would not send it.. There is a lost segment that Darshan was supposed to send before I left Puttaparti; I am still trying to open the file that Jerry brought me. I may have to retype those 9 hours of typing!
Dear Vickie, please remove Darshan's email address from the group email folder. I don't want him to be on the list anymore. You will soon see why! But please put my name on it, that way I will get an extra backup. I should have thought of this at the beginning, not the end! But things were too intense for me to do too much thinking.... the heat, the emotional ups and downs, etc. Love, Jeannie I got your message about the Word2000 file not opening. I tried sending you another copy of it. Did you get it? I hope the diskette is good, 9 hours typing and 500 rupees. I may have to bring the diskette home. See you in a couple of weeks. Feb. 12th Brindavan Swami left at 5am on the 9th of February for Brindavan, His ashram in Whitefield. Whitefield is a suburb of Bangalore. Darshan had said he would come with me in a taxi. We decided to leave the day after Swami left. He said he had connections in Whitefield, and did I want him to find me a room. He made a couple of phone calls in front of me, but not in English. He said he got two rooms, one for me and one for him, at 150 rupees per night! He said that these were newly constructed rooms near Sai Towers, and we would be the first people to use them. Darshan said he would get the keys from his friend when we got there. He asked me for 500 rupees advance payment. He also said he would buy my cassette recorder that I had barely used for 500 rupees. He said he would pay me in Whitefield when he collected the 3000 rupees that Donovan owed him. So as soon as Swami left, he reserved a taxi for us for the next day. And he invited our friend Jerry to come with us. Jerry had planned on staying in Puttaparti for the next two days, as he was going back to the US on Feb. 12th. But Darshan talked him into coming with us, and told him he could share his room in Whitefield. I packed my suitcases and gave away things to the lady who cleans rooms. It is getting terribly hot in Puttaparti, hotter every day. It is a good thing we are leaving. Jerry, Darshan and I took off for Brindavan about 11:30am on the 11th of February. We were in a new taxi, and looking forward to new rooms. I felt that Swami was sending me off with a lot of grace. We arrived at Sai Towers, and Darshan put my suitcases and Jerry's backpack and bags in front of Sai Towers. The taxi drove off. It was 3:15pm. Darshan said he was going to get the keys to our room, and to wait there. So Jerry and I waited. At 4pm, Darshan had still not arrived with our keys .I asked the security guard that stands in front of Sai Towers to watch my suitcases while I went to Bhajans. Jerry was walking around with his backpack on his back, trying to find Darshan and our rooms. I came back at about 5pm, found Jerry, and still no Darshan. I decided to get a snack at Sai Towers, and stay in trust. I wasn't going to get upset. At 6pm, Jerry said he had looked everywhere, and there was no sign of Darshan. There are only a couple of blocks of shops here. We began to think we had been tricked. Jerry said that Darshan owed him about 2500 rupees, and Darshan owed Donovan 3000 rupees! And Jerry said that Darshan owed a young couple 300 rupees that he took for an advance booking for a taxi. But the taxi was never booked! I told Jerry that Darshan owed me 1000 rupees! And, with all these lies, I wondered if Darshan had really sent my email, as he had said! I had typed for 9 hours, and that cost me 500 rupees! I hoped I wouldn't have to re-type the whole thing! I still have my notes, but I prefer typing about what I am experiencing now. So Darshan owed us all money! And he thought that we would all be off to Whitefield, and not want to go back to Puttaparti to find it. At 6:45pm, it was starting to get dark. And there we were, with our luggage outside, in front of Sai Towers. I decided to look for a room. I asked the security guard to continue watching my suitcases. I started to feel sad, very hurt, but did not let my mind go there. I asked Sai Baba for spiritual help. I walked the short distance to the inexpensive rooms George had stayed in. The two Indian women that owned it were in the road. They had no vacancy. So I walked a few feet from there to the hotel I stayed at last time. No vacancy. Then I walked a few more feet to where I had stayed for one night last time. No vacancy. I walked back to the two Indian women who had rented a room to George. The young woman said she would come with me and help me find a room, since she could speak the local languages. I felt relieved to have her support. We walked the few feet back to Sai Towers to check on my luggage. Some men there said they knew where there was a room. They just needed a few minutes to clean it and get it ready. It was very close, just past the small temple across the road. The young woman and I walked over there. The room was small, but fine. It was 300 rupees per night. The young Indian woman said her rooms were now 300 rupees per night also. They had gone up 100 rupees since October. A young man was removing a new computer from the room I was to rent. He said I could use it to access the Internet. Less than 15 minutes had passed since I had prayed, and begun my search for a room. I now had a room, and a computer to use. Sai Baba took care of me as soon as I realized I needed help. Jerry found a cab that was returning to Puttaparti. Darshan owed the cab driver 1200 rupees, as well! Jerry was going to try to get all of our money, and a diskette with my group email on it. He would leave at 3am for Puttaparti, arriving there in the early morning. He asked to sleep on the floor of my room. I was glad to let him do that. He put a towel down on the cement floor, and went to sleep. He left at 3am. Feb. 11th I woke up early and went to darshan. I had a pretty good seat. I was lucky enough to have a seat by an aisle. Swami came out, and walked among us. I love these darshans at Brindavan. I was in the only spare room in a family home. The family said that I was to consider myself as their guest, and let them know anything I needed. And they said that they would give me my meals. Did I like idlis? Oh, Swami, thank you for so much grace! I read some email. Since this is a family home, I am the only customer! No lines, no clamor of the vendors to walk through! What a blessing! I am wondering what happened with Jerry. I have a new strategy with the vendors and beggars. They are more intense here. I hold a wallet-sized picture of Sai Baba in one hand. If a beggar or vendor approaches me, I put the picture near my face, and between me and the would-be intruder to my peace. I start saying, "Sai Baba, you are so beautiful, Sai Baba, Sai Baba." The vendors and beggars melt away like magic! It is amazing. Thank heavens. My frustration tolerance with them is almost zero at this point! I appreciate Sai Baba's protection in this matter. I went to bhajans. Swami enters, and sits in front for about 30 minutes. I enjoyed his presence. As I left, I found Jerry! He was back! He said he had gotten everyone's money, and my diskette with the group email! What a drama! As he and the cab driver approached Puttaparti, they spotted the cab that Jerry and Darshan and I had taken to Whitefield! The driver was sleeping in it. Jerry found out that Darshan had left us out, and gotten right back into the cab aroun the corner, and returned to Puttaparti. Darshan planned on showering, and taking off on a morning bus for another city! The scam was verified! Jerry arrived at Darshan's mother's door. Darshan came out, and made up a story about a friend having an accident! (Right, and he heard about it by mental telepathy?!!!) Jerry said he was not buying any lies, he came as our representative, and he had a letter from Jeannie to take to the police if he did not get the money. He said Darshan turned into a little kid, and gave him a check for all that he owed us! He took a diskette and copied my 9 hours of typing. Jerry gave me my 1000 rupees and diskette! I offered to pay a share of Jerry's expenses to Puttaparti and back, and to buy him a big dinner. Jerry declined both, saying he wanted to eat dinner with Donavan and tell him the story. But he would appreciate sleeping on my floor again, since he is flying out tomorrow. He wants to find the other people to give them their money, and not spend his time searching for a room. I am glad to do this. A little puritanical thought creeps in, what if the room owners object? For me, it is little different than sleeping in the train sleeper cars. There were men all around me. And Jerry is very considerate and quiet. He writes in his journal and goes to sleep. This is sad for Jerry and I. We had trusted Darshan, and thought he was our friend. But now, we don't trust a word he says. We both are doing a lot of thinking about what lessons we learned from this experience. I trust people, and only very occasionally does someone not worthy of the trust show up in my life. I decide that my lesson was to speak up when I have little inner feelings of discomfort. And I am going to continue trusting people. Darshan has lost a lot of friends. This is too bad. Darshan has some wonderful qualities, but lying and stealing and scamming overshadow all the good moments. Now I wonder if anything he said was true. I tell the room owners what happened. That helps my puritanical discomfort. And that way it is in the open that Jerry will be here. They accept the situation. Jerry and I and their son, a computer expert, try to open my file on the diskette. We could not do it. So they sent for a friend who is a computer whiz. He realized that the problem is that the file was created on a new program, Word2000. The program on this computer is an older version, and could not open it. I was getting tired, so we gave up for the night. My main point in writing this story is that I had highly recommended that people call on Darshan for help in a previous email letter. I had included his email in case anyone wanted it. Now that I am aware that he is a con artist and liar, I must pass that on to anyone who may have saved his email. And I suggest avoiding dealings with him in Puttaparti! Feb. 12th I went to darshan at about 6:40am. I was in the late line. It does not matter much here. I found a place in front of a column, so no one is at my back. Last night at bhajans, I sat in front of people on chairs, just in front of a narrow aisle that is kept open.. I had no one behind me there, either. Sai Baba is seeing that I always have a seat with at least one side free from other people, as I am too sensitive to bear being closed in at this point. Today is Sunday, and bhajans are sung as Swami walks around. He walked fairly close to me, and smiled gently in my direction. He spent quite a bit of time walking all around. Then He sat down and listened to the devotional singing. He sits very still. Occasionally He moves His hands in time to the music. The arati is done, and He leaves. I return to my room. The young man asks me if I want breakfast now. I do! So I sit down and he brings me 4 iddlis, and some delicious sambar. He offers me coffee or tea, but I thank him and decline. I drink my mineral water. Jerry is packing up. He leaves today at about noon, for a 3pm flight. He got good news via email for a job prospect. Baba is easing his return. These dates are wrong. It was March, not February. I was so hurt by Darshan’s behavior that I was emotionally off balance. I wasn’t aware of it at the time, but Sai Baba was. That is why, I am sure, he provided the room with meals, computer, and family love for me within 15 minutes of me knowing I needed a room. __________________________________________________
Hi, Vickie, Here is the final group email, the end of my India journey! Love, Jeannie Hello, everyone! After a flight of about 24 hours, I arrived at San Francisco airport on March 18th. Then my next adventure and divine intervention occurred! My luggage, which I had just seen a few hours ago at customs in Los Angeles had not arrived. I had even checked my carryon bag because I was so tired. So I went to the lost baggage claim near the luggage turntables. The lady there told me that another flight from Los Angeles would be there in half an hour. She suggested I wait and see if it came then. So while I waited, I called the hostel where I hoped to stay, at $19 dollars a night. They said that they had no beds. I found an ATM machine near the telephone. I withdrew $100 U.S. currency. What a great service these ATM machines are! There is little need now for traveler's checks. I got rupees with my ATM card in India, and as soon as I arrived home, got US dollars. The next flight arrived, and many bags tumbled down onto the turntable. But none of mine. So I went back to the lost luggage counter. Luckily there was not a long waiting line, because I was exhausted and getting hungry. As I waited in line, I thougt to myself that there is always something good that comes out of seeming obstacles, and that all would be well. The lady at the baggage claim gave me a $50 voucher for a taxi to my hotel, and said she would send the luggage within four hours of its arrival. She let me use her phone to call the hostel again. They still did not have space, but gave me the number of the budget hotel near them. They told me that all the hostels were full because many people came to San Francisco for the St. Patrick day parade. I called the budget hotel. They were full, too. I told the lady that I probably could cope better with this if I ate something. I asked if a restaurant was near this area. She said that there were restaurants upstairs. And she said for me to give back the $50 taxi voucher, that she was going to give me something much better. She told me that she was going to give me a $10 meal voucher and a hotel voucher, and that a free shuttle would take me to the hotel and back to the airport in the morning! The hotel was the Hyatt Regency Airport Hotel! Plus she gave me a free hygiene kit. She said that United reserved several rooms there for distressed passengers. I guess I qualified because I was so tired. Plus she was so kind. Divine intervention, I believe! So I thanked her, and went upstairs to search for a restaurant that had a vegetarian meal. The very first restaurant was called the Crab Pot, I think. They had pasta primavera on their menu. It cost $12.95! I was in a bit of culture shock! Perhaps I should say financial shock. After spending rupees, with an expensive meal costing less than $3 U.S., now this meal would cost hundreds of rupees. I was too tired to search for anything cheaper. I ordered it, ate and enjoyed it. I decided to check to see if my luggage had come in before I went to the hotel. The luggage carousel area was deserted. But to my surprise, sitting in a little line of suitcases, were my three suitcases! The luggage straps to pull two of them were gone. So I got a cart and loaded them on it, and went outside to find the shuttle. The shuttle took me to the hotel. I gave the shuttle driver a dollar tip for lifting my three heavy bags. Again, financial shock. In India I would have given 10 rupees. A dollar is 44 rupees. I would have to get over thinking in rupees, and adjust to the U.S. economy. The lobby was exquisite, with shiny marble expanses. There was a central courtyard with a giant skylight over gardens, ponds, and waterfalls! What a treat to be in this gorgeous environment! I was in great appreciation of the beauty that Americans create in the buildings and gardens. A bellhop took my suitcases to my room. I gave him a couple of dollars, with a gulp. Remember, I was very tired. After all, the room was free. But I was too tired to think of that. I walked into the beautiful room wearing a sweater and a jacket, and carrying my purse and trusty water bottle holder. I looked in the bathroom, and saw a bathtub! I did not stop to take off my jacket or put down my purse or water bottle! I started running the hot water into the tub! My first bathtub bath in six months! I took a quick glance at my beautiful room before I hopped in the bathtub. There were two double beds, a table and chairs, and a sliding glass door with a view of the central courtyard. It was gorgeous. I thanked God for pampering me so much at the end of my voyage! I was in awe. Oh, such joy! That bath felt so great! Hot water was all over my body at the same time! I was so happy. But after the bath, I decided to try to make hostel reservations for the following night, at least. I was going to be in San Francisco for a week. I needed change to make the phone calls to hostels and budget hotels. I had a list of ten budget hotels and a number of hostels. I went to the deli in the middle of the courtyard. She did not have change to give me. I thought of buying a bag of chips or something small from her to get a bit of change. But rupees to dollars shock was still there, and I quickly decided not to spend what now seemed such high prices on a little bag of potato chips. It would have been only 6 rupees in India, about 12 cents! The lady at the deli counter suggested I ask for change in the sports bar at the edge of the courtyard. I went there. The bartender gave me two dollars worth of quarters. He did not have any dimes. As I left the bar, I asked woman walking by if she had any change for quarters or dollars. She did not have change for them, but gave me a dime. Outside the bar, a woman and man were talking. I approached them, and asked if they had any change for dollars or quarters. They were curious about the Indian clothes I was wearing, a punjabi. It is like a dress with pants. I told them I had just returned from India, and told them the wonderful story about my luggage and the dinner and hotel stay. The woman took out a big handful of change, several dollars worth. I said, "Great, I can give you dollars." She told me to keep it, and thus added to the blessings of this marvelous evening that began with lost luggage and no room at the hostel! A dinner voucher, a luxury hotel room, and now money poured into my hands! I felt like God was welcoming me back to my country! I called the hostel about a reservation for the following night. The man said there were no reservations available. He suggested I come in the next morning and try to get a walk-in room. He said that there were always some available, first come, first served. I decided to go there in the morning. I went back to my room, and actually was too excited to sleep right away after all the wonderful things that had just happened. I finally got to sleep around 11pm. I had dozed some on the airplane, and was still used to India time. It is daytime there when it is nighttime here. It is exactly the other side of the world. So even though I had little sleep, I woke up around 4:30am. I decided to eat breakfast, and then go early to the hostel. I wanted to be first in line for a room for the night! The room was equipped with a coffee maker, tea bags, and all kinds of goodies. I had packed an instant Cream of Wheat and a paper bowl and plastic spoon. I heated water in the coffee pot, made my cream of wheat and a cup of herbal tea. I had a lovely breakfast at the table in my room overlooking the courtyard. I decided to check at the lost luggage office to see if they had found any luggage straps. So after the shuttle dropped me at the airport, I went back into the lost baggage claim. The lady working there pointed me to a bin at the side of the room. She said if there were any, they would be there. After the events of the previous day, I fully expected there to be two of them for me! And there were exactly two in the bin! I thanked the lady, silently thanked Swami, and went outside to take the shuttle bus to the hostel near Union Square. I arrived at the hostel about 8am. I was the third person to arrive. The man at the desk said there would be no problem getting a room. When it was time to check in, I asked if there was room for me for the rest of the week. Miraculously, a room had opened up for the entire length of my stay! I made reservations for the next six days. I spent the next six afternoons with my now grown-up child, Teira. We had a great time. One evening Teira cooked an old family recipe with me supervising. I did not think I would want to wear punjabis in the United States. I was wrong. They are great for San Francisco. It is chilly here, and the pants keep my legs warm. I had gotten tired of the clothes I had been wearing for years before my trip. I did not like to wear dre |
